February 17th (Part 1)
Our first day in Salvador, Brazil.
Dock time in Puerto Rico was 8am, but this time it’s 7am.
Priya and I watched with sleepy eyes through our window as we saw the skylines of Salvador closing in.
After a quick breakfast, we headed to the union for our diplomatic briefing. A lady who worked for the US consulate (I think) gave us a little talk, which honestly was a total bore since she had nothing new or interesting to say. And we were all itching to get off the ship into Salvador.
Our sea was the first to get our passports this time, and we stepped out onto the deck to take pictures. It was the most intense heat I had ever felt. And it was only 8 in the morning. Oh my gosh. We felt it was going to be a long day. The sun was seriously piercing our skin and wow was it bright.
Our glimpse of Salvador was different from San Juan. As I had read in the guide books, I could see the city divided into Cidade Alta (upper town) and Cidade Baixa (lower town). The two are connected by Elevador Lacerda, which is a huge elevator and the first one to be installed in Salvador. We were told never to walk between the two cities, and to always take the elevator.
The line of houses I saw of Cidade Alta all seemed extremely old and run down. They were all narrow and side-by-side, with some church looking buildings popping up here and there. Despite the poor conditions, they all had these colors that were still bright and visible. It was beautiful.
Due to the change in tide, our gangway was on deck 5 instead of 2 today. The line was massive and it took us forever to get out of the ship.
Today I had taken off all the jewelry I usually refuse to take off (3 rings and earrings), left my video and digital camera, and had not even brought a bag of any sort. I had a debit card in my leg pocket, my $25 worth of Brazilian currency spread out in 3 different pockets, and a disposable camera. (So I have no pictures to upload of Salvador yet) It was all due to the warnings we had received the whole way between Puerto Rico and Brazil. There’s no way you can be too careful.
So I have to admit I was definitely a bit nervous about what this country had in store for us. Crime seemed so common and, on top of it all, we were going to be there during carnaval when the crime rates shoot up even more. Hey, it’s the largest festival of the world. We had to brace ourselves.
Once we stepped off, we saw a group of men playing the drums and welcoming us. There were ladies in traditional dresses who tied colorful string like things to our wrists. I forgot what they were called, but they are traditional good luck charms that come from the Candomblé tradition.
I need to explain here a little bit about Salvador.
Salvador is the capital of the state of Bahia, and due to its location it was the center of the slave trade back when Brazil was a colony of Portugal. Because of this, the African population is still extremely large and is at about 85%. (Brazil as a country has the second largest number of Africans outside of Nigeria) The culture reflects this in the music, food, and religion as well. Religious practices of Candomblé and of Yoruba are common, and ingredients that come originally from Africa are used frequently as well. Capoeira is a popular combination of dancing and martial arts that was created when slaves tried to create a form of self defense without being noticed by the colonialists.
So that’s the basic of Salvador.
Once we stepped outside of our dock area (we were literally docked in this port where tons of cargo ships and stuff come in) we were swamped with cab drivers offering us to drive places. We fought our way through and headed for the banks to get some cash.
At the bank, there was a long line of SAS students and it was quite a wait. Right after I got my money, I stuffed it into my shoe. Yup, another precaution.
Priya and I headed down to Mercado Modelo, which is the largest market around. On the way we passed by a ton of buildings that were a bit run down and without many people, since it was carnaval and it was a business district.
We made a stop at a small pharmacy where I bought a bottle of water.
When we got to the end of the road, a bay opened up in front of us, with vendors and people, people, people. It was definitely exciting. There was a long line of people that seemed to be waiting to get onto ferries. To where, I don’t know. But the line was all Africans and a lot seemed to have much of their belongings with them.
The first purchase of the day was made by me being all touristy. I got a coconut from the vendor, who chopped the top open with a machete and stuck a straw in it. I can’t say it was the best thing I had ever had, but it was refreshing in the hot sun and I was satisfied holding a coconut in my hand.
We proceeded on to the market which was inside a large building. In front of it was a restaurant space where many people were sitting and drinking beer and eating. There was also a Capoeira performance going on. We were watching when a young boy who was part of the performance came up to us and started asking us for money. I knew there was more to come, but it was hard ignoring and rejecting him.
It’s the reality that a lot of people who beg for anything here, young or old, simply trade those things in for drugs.
We went into the market and saw lots of colors, sounds, and PEOPLE. Many tourists wandering around in awe among the heat and excitement. Now, I’m definitely not used to bargaining, since it’s a very unfamiliar culture in Japan or the US. But I had to. That’s how they do it here, and in most of the places we’re going.
So I was thinking of possibly getting a knock off Ronaldinho soccer jersey, and I succeeded in getting the price down to 25 reals (about $12.50) but by then I wasn’t even interested in buying it. So I just got a pack of postcards.
Outside of the market on the other side, there were lots of other vendors. Many walked around with beads hanging from their arms and they would try to sell them to you. We found an interesting booth that made dresses, bags, and belts out of pop can tabs. It was so fun seeing the stuff and I saw a belt that was made of green and yellow pull tabs that I really liked. So that was my number one souvenir in Salvador.
There were tons of booths with jewelry, art, and bunch of other things. I had heard that hammocks are a popular souvenir in Brazil and I saw many. I wanted one so bad but I have no where to put it, so I resisted. Good job me. I have not been wasting money on stupid things. (No, the belt is not stupid)
Most of the vendors were shirtless guys who had elaborate tattoos on their bodies which were also interesting to see.
Now here’s another thing about Brazil. The country is proud to say that they do not have that bad of racism. Instead they have classism. It is the number one country in the world where the disparity between the poor and the rich is the largest. An interesting thing to note here is that race and class are still tightly linked. We saw not a single vendor that was of lighter skin color. Something to keep in mind.
So we headed from the market on to the gigantic elevator. Before that, I stopped and bought acaraje which is one of the traditional Bahian foods. I think it’s originally from Ghana. It’s black eyed peas mashed up and rolled into a dough-ish thing, fried in dende (palm oil). Then they stuff a paste which is usually made from different spices, nuts etc. To top it off you usually put dried shrimp and hot sauce. It was interesting, a flavor I had not experienced.
The elevator was a fast ride up. It was not the best elevator ever, and I wondered how safe it was. But so many people ride it everyday, and it was the only alternative to walking up the “forbidden” path or taking the cab. Plus it was free during carnaval. (as opposed to the usual 5 centavos, which is like 2 cents)
At the exit, there was a plaza with some people selling stuff again. The view from there was phenomenal. You could see the whole bay and the houses that stood between the two cities.
This part of the upper city is called Pelorinho, and it is a historical city that is a UNESCO world heritage. The city was definitely different than usual due to carnaval. All the stores were closed and instead, there were food vendors in front of every single closed shutter. Festivity was definitely in the air. Music was playing from boom boxes, and we saw the huge trucks that were going to be in the parade.
These trucks were really something. They are huge and the bottom 15 or so feet of it was all amps that were HUGE. Then they would have the place where the band would play and then usually more space for fans and such to stand on. If you purchase a shirt, which goes from about $20 up to $700, you get to be on the trucks or walk right along side them. The popular bands are obviously the ones with expensive t-shirts. A lot of people usually purchase tickets to the camarote, which is a room or balcony along the road where you can see the parade comfortably and SAFELY.
It was only a little past noon so people were just getting warmed up. (The carnaval had been going on already for a few days at this point) There were lots of families, and a lot of the kids were dressed up in costume like clothes.
We were just walking along, when a group of boys about 8-10 approach us for money. When we ignored them, the boys started calling to me trying to get attention. What was funny was that they called me “Japonesa”. It was kind of cool actually, because this was the only country I had ever been to where people did not assume all Asians were Chinese or Korean. I had not seen a single Asian yet in Salvador, but I guess the Japanese really do have a big presence in the Brazilian community.
It started to rain while we were scoping out a place to eat lunch. And oh my. The raindrops were ridiculously huge. They were the biggest drops I had ever seen in my life. It was really amazing. We had fun walking in it at first, but we got drenched pretty fast so we stood at a bus stop for a while. While we waited for the rain to go away, we saw many men dancing to the music that was coming from a boom box with giant amps. These men were old, like in their 60s, but they knew how to dance. It was in their blood. They looked so happy doing it too, just moving their body however they wanted to.
We actually saw a restaurant right by the bus stop and we decided to go in. The menu was entirely in Portuguese and most of the stuff we had absolutely no idea what it was. Priya is vegetarian so that was mega hard. We kept on trying to tell the guy that she ate no meat, but he didn’t seem to understand. So she ended up ordering some random dessert off the menu which turned out to be this huge slice of cheese with guava paste on it. Interesting…
My food turned out to be absolutely amazing. It was chunks of beef cooked with vegetables in a watery gravy thing that came with rice and beans. It makes me hungry just remembering about it. Yummmmm. So I was really excited about my food and wanted to tell the waiter that it was really good. The sign you’re supposed to use when something is good is a thumbs up, but I completely forgot about that and made the circle with my thumb and pointing finger. Now this sign is supposed to mean something vulgar in Brazil. The second I did that, I totally remembered and took it back. Haha. There’s some cultural experience.
On our walk back to the elevator, we saw some people already congregating together for the carnaval parade. There was a large group of people who were dressed in orange shirts who had a huge marching band in the middle and they were all yelling and dancing as they proceeded down the street.
We also saw tons of men wearing black mini skirts, black knee socks, black shirts with they stomach showing, tons of make up, cat ears, and water guns. They were being what you would stereotypically call “gay” and “feminine”. It was so much fun to watch them. They were very playful. Later we found out that they were all police officers and that it was a tradition to dress and act like that during carnaval. One of the things about carnaval is that it is a place to completely cross the barriers of class, race, gender and everything else that is your identity in your usual life. This really exemplified it.
So we got a good intro taste to what this whole fiesta was going to be like. Or we thought so.
We headed back to the ship after being out until only about 3:30. It was so exhausting, from the mixture of intense heat, nervousness of being robbed, and being in a completely foreign country.